To improve the stream, I've added a webcam to show my face. Webcam Tripod Extension Mount 18:08 - MakingĪs mentioned earlier, I've been streaming my video game play online. It's working again, so good enough for now! So technically, I repaired this mouse by damaging it. But this had the side effect of making the stuck-down plastic no longer exist, where it used to bump into the button. I took a look at a disassembly guide online, and I thought I might be able to pry this flexible plastic out of the way. More recently it happened again, and I couldn't. Then, I managed to pry a bit and get the plastic un-stuck, and the mouse worked again. I've never wanted these other things (a replacement for Alt-Tab on Windows, at least).
It stops moving the cursor, so moving the mouse can do a different thing. This holds the gesture button down, and while the gesture button is held, the mouse behaves differently. It's wrapped in soft/flexible rubbery plastic. It's just got one weird feature, a "gesture" button accessible by your thumb. I really like my Logitech MX Master mouse. The hole for it is small enough, but tons of light leaks around the USB ports. Once I put the fuse in and closed it up: everything works fine! And of course, the status light is an awful bright blue thing. The smaller and closer black blob is the new shrink wrapped fuse, with little green wires leading back to the board. A large black blob is the original shrink wrapped board. You'll have to look close at the picture to see it: it's at the bottom/right of the picture. So I took some short wires, soldered it in, and covered everything in shrink wrap (like the original) to be safe. Which was a bare fuse, no leads like the original had. I ended up putting an 8 amp fuse in to replace it, from what I already had on hand. I couldn't see what its original ratings were - this was a little glass fuse, the ratings are normally stamped on the metal ends. Once I flipped it out, I found what not only looked clearly like a fuse but also was labeled "F1" on the board. The smaller board was directly connected to the AC input, one leg via the switch. I found a much larger and more complicated circuit board to run the USB ports than I'd expect, and one smaller one. Then some plastic clips holding the base on, and I was in. There were two more screws, under two of the four rubber feet. There were two visible screws on the bottom, but that wasn't enough. At this point, it was time to open it up. Then I tried the AC outlets: those also didn't work. A little dot on the front looked like a status light, not lit.
This one was not.īut it looked pretty nice, so I took the time to look into it. Sometimes people toss things that are perfectly working. I spotted a nifty looking two-outlet four-USB power strip. While there, I passed the electronics recycling bin. I had to do laundry, and I was out of funds so I had to trek to the basement to recharge my laundry card. Weekend Repair: USB Power Strip 12:48 - Making
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